“In which our intrepid traveler finds his fate in the hands of an Amalfi ice lolly truck driver…”

You could call my style of travel stoic. Or stubborn. I don’t like tour groups, guides or programs very much. I usually prefer to set off either on my own or with my traveling companions, making our own mistakes, discovering what we discover, not what someone else thinks we should discover. Of course, I miss a lot this way. The view I could have had if a guide had led me directly to the overlook. The details of King Herod’s conquests that I don’t learn from the lightweight guide book and the pile of stones it leads me to. Sometime I miss out connecting with other people, getting to know fellow tourists. But, as I say, I am a stubborn traveler.

Maybe I should think about changing that.

Anyway, reading about the Amalfi Coast, and seeing the various enormous guided groups, I started to get itchy. I thought: how about a hike along some of the real Amalfi/Sorrento roads? I’ll plot a course, visit some places and avoid all the tour stuff. I’m not totally independent, of course. I went to the tourist office to get maps, ask questions, get advice. The tourist office staffer in Sorrento thought it would be nice to take a short bus ride to a town in the Massa Lubrense peninsula, hike down from that town to a “green” (environmentally friendly) fishing village turned resort, then hike across the peninsula to another town where I could lay on the beach, have lunch and take the bus back.

At least, I think that’s what he said.

I took a bus to the little town he pointed out (Torca), with some bread, cheese and a bottle of water. Headed off in direction of the sea, with sun protection and good boots. But the Amalfi sun was relentless, and after the first few hundred meters, no shade. The tourist map (or the tourist office staffer) did not indicate the “600 scalino” (stone steps), 250 meter descent to the fishing village of Crapolla. I finished my water bottle and shrugged, knowing I could buy water at the village/resort. At the bottom of the steps, I rounded the corner to a little cove. Sure enough, a secret inlet of the sea, filled with sunbathers and a beautiful setting. But. No village, resort, or… fresh water. Just sunbathers who either hiked in with picnics or were dropped by boat. In fact the “green fishing village” itself was an abandoned dump of a place. Rotting gear everywhere and chunks of Styrofoam on the beach. Maybe I just discovered how “Crapolla” got its name?

So, I turned and hiked back up the 600 scalinos with no water. When I got to the top I was a bit heat struck and dehydrated. Looking at the map, I wondered if I could continue and follow the plan and hike along the coast to the next resort town. The tourist office staffer senore said it was just a few kilometers and that I could easily do it. But, I had no water, and I was a little lost. I set out in what I thought was the right direction, which was soon shaded. But the shade is where the Amalfi biting flies live, by the dry creek bed. I alternated between the baking sun and the biting flies, which swarmed my face so thickly I had to close my eyes most of the time. I staggered on, lost-er, and lost-er.

Dazed, I heard the sound of music approaching. A tiny ice cream truck appeared on the tiny country road, and slipped past me, there being just enough room for me and the truck. After it passed, I realized it represented help, so I shouted and ran after it. The driver stopped and emerged wearing a white pressed uniform like the Good Humor ice lolly truck drivers of two generations ago. No English, but he had water! The cheapest liter bottle I’ve ever bought (0.50 EU).

As we struggled to understand each other and my map, a couple of residents seeking ice lollies came up and joined our “conversation.” Eventually, I understood where I was, and indicated to them that I might want to continue on with my plan to walk to the next resort village. They looked at me and said, “Oh, no you cannot walk there from here – it is more than 12 kilometers.”

I guess the tourist office staffer didn’t quite have all the details right.